If Starbuck’s is the devil, then Jesus Christ has been resurrected at 8210 Oak St. in the Z’OTZ Coffeehouse. Essentially a refuge for those nauseated by the increasingly suburbanite culture encroaching on our fair city, Z’OTZ blends together all the mysterious, interesting and line crossing ingredients that make New Orleans such a sweet town.

Warning: the cultured menu may alarm or baffle those hailing from Metairie. Exquisite espresso concoctions and a huge selection of fine teas from around the world, including the South American yerba mate served out of the traditional gourd and metal straw, constitute the ample amount of beverage choices. Most importantly, for the coffeehouse Gestapo, the drip coffee tastes fresh, full and rich, never burnt or stale. Try the sultry dark roast for an especially long night of pondering the meaning of Hipsterdom.

Food options abound with Lebanese hummus, babaganoush (eggplant dip) and dolma (stuffed grape leaves). Fresh bagels sit sumptuously in jars, tacitly tempting for a patron’s toasting, but don’t forget the homemade soups and the sandwiches.

Both food and drink push the envelope of typical coffeehouse cuisine, opening up many once locked doors to vegans, vegetarians and the socially aware by stocking the shelves with many nondairy, meatless and fair trade products.

Z’OTZ first opened on Royal Street, just outside the French Quarter in June 2003. Two artists Mack Henson and Chesley Allen birthed Z’OTZ with the intention of creating a space open to new and challenging people, ideas and artwork. With the help of 32 other artists ranging from poets to circus performers, Henson and Allen, created the intensely original sanctuary.

The current Z’OTZ on Oak Street was also designed by 15 of the original 32 artists, hence why the café feels and looks like a big art project.

The store divides into three sections. The walls of the front room have a textured and rough surface, producing a cavelike effect where rings of cigarette smoke mingle with the snaking incense from the Hunter S. Thompson shrine. Up the stairs, in section two, is a “Little House on the Southern Afganistani Prairie” room. The dark wood floors, walls, ceiling and furniture give the appearance of a rustic log cabin; however, the Buddhas, manikins painted gold and morphed into naked goddesses and hookahs, add a touch of exotic eastern flair. The last section of Z’OTZ is the meditative outdoor patio with the Japanese style pond and garden.

At the core of all the interior design is the attention to detail. People could spend hours at Z’OTZ checking out the antique lamps, erotic Barbie doll photos and various Christian paintings monitoring from the walls.

So next time you need a caffeine fix, forgo the Sandella-smelling Underground and stop over at Z’OTZ anytime – literally, it’s open 24 hours – for a taste of the real New Orleans underside.

Sammy Loren can be rached at [email protected].