There’s little that can rival a good muffuletta for taste.

It is my opinion that the muffuletta is an underrated sandwich.

With its cheeses, meats and olive salad packed in an Italian loaf, this locally-invented sandwich constitutes a complete meal.

If you’re loose with definitions, it could even be called healthy.

It was with this thought that I headed downtown to the Central Grocery Co. and Deli, “Home of the Original Muffuletta.”

It’s located at 923 Decatur Street, between the French Market and Jackson Square.

You’re liable to miss it if not careful, so keep your eyes peeled.

Those familiar with the New Orleans food scene know that, with a few well-known exceptions, the more dilapidated the restaurant, the better the food.

Central Grocery Co. did not disappoint.

I noted with satisfaction the grimy floor and cluttered shelves — upon which one could find an assortment of olives, dried pasta, sauces and so forth — and, though I was a little miffed by the lack of Italians behind the counter, I felt fairly optimistic.

You order your muffuletta at the cash register, pre-cut and wrapped.

There are two sizes listed, half and whole, which are about $5 and $10, respectively.

I opted for the half and could only stuff down a quarter, so get the full thing only if you have several mouths to feed or wish to lure all the pigeons in greater New Orleans to an enemy’s car.

Five bucks may seem like a lot, but it’s less than most meals in the Orleans Room.

The store seemed rather crowded – there were easily a half-dozen people in there – so I got my muffuletta to go, even though there are some tables and a television set in back.

In my eagerness to eat, I neglected to buy a drink, so I couldn’t comment on the beverage selection, but it didn’t take long to find a street vendor selling cold soda.

I ate my long-awaited muffuletta on the streetcar (which is as difficult as it sounds).

The sandwich was beautiful.

The bread had been baked to a dark golden brown and liberally coated with olive oil.

The filling was an impressive portion of meat and cheese.

This sandwich is definitely not for vegetarians or people with light stomachs.

Aesthetics aside, it tasted great.

Not spectacular, and certainly not good enough to go mailing frozen portions to your distant relatives, but surprisingly good considering the price and how easy the sandwiches are to obtain.

So, if you’re ever in the Quarter and hungry — likely enough — be sure to remember the muffuletta and our friends at Central Grocery Co. and Deli.

Your mouth will be happy, and your arteries will forgive you.